Rwanda
Nyungwe Forest - Cyinzobe trail - Day 3 & chimpanzee habituation part 1
We woke up at 6 a.m. to the peaceful sounds of birdsong and the gentle flow of the river beside our cabin—an incredible way to start our final day on the Cyinzobe trail. With just 6 km ahead of us, we set off into the forest. Barely five minutes in, we were thrilled to spot a Great Blue Turaco, its vibrant feathers flashing through the trees. Our next adventure after this: the chimpanzee habituation.
30-meter-high waterfall & monkeys
An hour into the hike, we reached a stunning 30-meter-high waterfall, where we paused to soak in the view and watch for more birds. Later, as we moved deeper into the forest, we stumbled upon a lively group of silver monkeys—around twenty of them—leaping from tree to tree above us. It felt like a farewell performance from the forest itself.
Up next: driving to Gisovu for the chimpanzee habituation
By noon, we arrived back at the park reception, marking the end of our unforgettable 3-day trek. After saying goodbye to our guide and fellow hikers, we headed off to our next adventure: chimpanzee habituation. In Nyungwe, chimpanzees are gradually introduced to human presence over the course of three years, so they become comfortable being observed. The group we were about to track is in their second year of habituation, meaning they’re still adjusting and tend to be more cautious around people. Tomorrow, we’ll get a glimpse into the challenging but fascinating process of tracking these wild chimps. For the chimpanzee habituation experience, we picked up our guide at the same reception where our Cyinzobe trail had ended. From there, we made our way to Gisovu, in the northern part of Nyungwe Forest, with the guide joining us on the backseat of our car. The two-hour drive took us over unpaved roads through rural Rwanda. Along the way, we passed scenic farmland, small villages, and waved to enthusiastic children smiling from the roadside. It was a bumpy ride, but the views made it more than worth it.
Chimpanzee habituation part 1
We arrived at the Gisovu reception around 4 p.m., where we were taken to our accommodation for the night. After dropping off our bags, we headed back out for an afternoon hike—this time to see the chimpanzees as they prepare for the night. Unlike the relaxed pace of the Cyinzobe trail, this hike was much more intense. After about an hour of fast-paced trekking, we met up with the chimpanzee trackers. These rangers follow the chimps from before sunrise (often before 6 a.m.) until they settle down around 6 p.m., building new nests in the trees each night from branches and leaves. Because they keep moving, they build a fresh bed every day. The group we were following consists of 25 chimpanzees. We managed to spot five of them—though it wasn’t easy, as they were high up in the canopy. My iPhone’s superzoom came in handy, but a pair of binoculars is definitely recommended for this experience. We watched them swing and move around for about an hour before hiking back. Meanwhile, the trackers stayed behind to keep eyes on the group and note where they build their nests for the night—so that we can return to that exact spot in the morning, just before they wake.
