Poland
Day 1: Lodz
Lodz (pronounced woodge) is an old manufacturing city in Poland. The city is an eclectic mixture of 19th century crumbling palaces and red brick former textile factories. The city was once the height of wealth in the 19th century but saw its wealth disappear as Tsarist Russia (the largest export market) came under the grasp of Communism. One by one the factories closed down and the city fell upon hard times under the Iron Curtain.
Take the direct train from Warsaw to Lodz
Take a direct train from Warsaw (Warszawa Centralna) to Łódź (Łódź Fabryczna). The train ride takes between 90 min and 150 minutes, depending on the type of train you take. Multiple trains run daily and prices range from 30 PLN ($7,5) to 60 PLN ($15). Check the timetables and book your ticket online or directly in the Central Station of Warsaw.
Visit Manufaktura and do a bit of shopping
Manufaktura is the perfect juxtaposition of the city’s industrial roots and modern-day living. Manfukatura can lay claim to the fact that it is one of the largest urban regeneration schemes in Poland and is a credit to the city’s revitalization efforts. Here you can walk amongst the former textile factories encased by a sturdy industrial brick building from the late 1800s while pursuing over 200 shops and boutiques, a cinema, fitness center, bowling alley, bars, and restaurants. Once you are shopped out then it is certainly worth visiting The Museum of the Factory. A trip around the factory will journey you back in time to the 19th Century and you can experience the everyday life of the workers at this once-bustling factory. You will also get a first-hand insight into the life and works of the factory’s creator Izrael Poznanski.
Visit the Izrael Poznanski Palace
Staying within the physical remit of Manufaktura and just a two-minute stroll away is one of the great historical Lodz attractions, the Izrael Poznanski Palace, which was built in the late 19th century. You will not be able to miss this former home of cotton mogul Izrael Poznanski, which stands tall in an L-shaped plan and exudes the grandeur and prosperity with which it was built. The scope and extravagance of this former residence can be felt from the cleverly carved stone exterior through to its plush interiors. Internally you can expect to find silk wallpaper, chandeliers, and stained-glass skylights as you walk through its vast premises. Once at the palace you can explore the private study of Poznanski, the palace grounds, or visit the Lodz City Museum located within the palace itself. A ticket costs only 10 PLN (around 2.5 €).
Stroll down Ulica Piotrkowska
Coming back now to the hustle and bustle of the modern-day, one of the Lodz must-see attractions is Piotrkowska street. This street can be picked out on any map of Lodz as it is a poker straight line measuring just under five kilometers in length, making it one of Europe’s longest pedestrian and commercial streets. This street spans the centuries having once been the home to the successful industrialists, apparent by the intricate facades and grandeur of the buildings. These buildings have, for the most part, been lovingly restored to replicate the wealth and splendor of the industrial age although you can expect to find some still in a state of disrepair. As you walk down this endless street you will find these towering buildings filled with modern shops, boutiques, cafes, bars, and some of the best restaurants in Lodz. You can walk the length of this street which stretches from Independence square (Plac Niepodległości) to Liberty square (Plac Wolności) or you can ride a rickshaw for just 7zl ($1.60) per person.
Grab a bite to eat at Off Piotrowska
Off Piotrkowska is, as you might imagine, just off Piotrkowska street. It is modern-day development in the former factory owned by Franciszek Ramish in the late 19th century. Think of it as Manukaktura’s trendier younger cousin, developed in and around a traditional red-brick industrial factory but full of color, art, independent shops, art studios, international cuisine, food trucks, and live music venues. It makes for the perfect summer afternoon hang-out.
Catch your reflection in one of the mosaics on Rosa’s Passage
Rosa’s Passage can be found at 3 Piotrowska street. Here you will uncover a magnificent mirror installation that uses broken mirrors to transform a once disregarded and soleless dark alley into a piece of contemporary art. If you can, try to visit this installation on a sunny day to get the full effect of the natural light reflecting around this now glittering space.
