A day in sizzling Palermo, the capital of Sicily
Navigate the bustling streets of Palermo, avert your ears to the colorful language on local markets, sidestep tourist traps, and head straight for the locals' favorite streetfood vendors.
Go for the Sicilian Breakfast
A typical breakfast in Italy consists of an espresso and, if you are lucky, a cornetto (the Italian version of a croissant). This does not hold true for Palermo. In Sicily one does not skip a meal, it is simply not done. There are two types of breakfast to be had in Sicily: 1. The moderate breakfast: Espresso/Cappucino and Sicilian Cannoli Simply step into the first bar you encounter and order "un café et un cannolo". 2. The calorie bomb: Espresso and a piece of Rosticceria (fried streetfood) Head over to Ganci in the historical center and choose your breakfast rosticceria. My personal favorite is the sfincione, also known as Sicilian Pizza. Ganci does not serve coffee, but the bar right next door does!
Get bedazzled at the Palace of the Normans
The Norman Palace, located on Piazza Independenza is the quintessential Sicilian monument. Originally built by the Arabs, expanded by the Normans and occupied by the Spanish. These days in houses the Sicilian Regional Assembly. The highlight of the Norman Palace is the Palatine chapel, this large 12th-century royal chapel is positively dripping with gold and precious jewels. Originally built to house mass for the royal family, the chapel is very ornately decorated from top to floor in mosaics depicting various biblical themes. Please note, photography is not allowed inside the chapel. You visit to the Norman Palace will last anywhere between 1h and 1.5h, entrance tickets cost €8.5
Visit the San Giovanni degli Eremiti Church
Your first of four churches you will be visiting today. The San Giovanni degli Eremiti Church is a beautiful medieval Norma church Next to the Norman palace, you can visit St. John of the Hermits (San Giovanni degli Eremiti in Italian), a medieval Norman church. From the street you can spot two large red domes peaking out over the lush greenery. This church is usually not on the main tourist agenda and thus usually a lot more tranquil. Wander through the beautifully preserved cloister and gardens. Prior to 2021 one could head up to the second floor, this has now been closed off for renovations. Entrance fee €6
Walk around the Cathedral of Palermo
The Cathedral of Palermo is an impressive feat of architecture, at least on the outside. Dating back to the 12th century the church stands at the very heart of the historical center. For a fee of €7 you can visit the crypt, treasury tombs and terraces. Personally I would save those €7 and spend it on a great dish of pasta. The inside of the cathedral stands in stark contrast with the ornate exterior, bare whitewashed walls lacking of any character whatsoever. Be sure to walk around the Cathedral though and check out the intricate carvings around the back.
Grab a traditional Sicilian Lunch
You cannot get more traditional than Pasta chi Sardi (Sicilian) or Pasta con le Sarde (Italian). A pasta dish made with raisins, breadcrumbs, fennel and of course silky olive oil. A really good place to try this dish alongside other traditional Sicilan dishes is a restaurant called Buatta.
Step into the most ornate church of Palermo Chiesa del Gesu
Sicily is the undisputed winner when it comes to ornate churches and the Chiesa del Gesu is its number one starlet. The church is run by the Jesuit order and built in a beautiful baroque style. Professional photography is not allowed inside the church, however taking pictures with your phone is not a problem.
Go mosaic hunting in the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio
Hidden behind a seemingly plain façade lies a beautiful 12th century little church, named after its patron a Syrian-Greek adventurer by the name of George of Antioch. Half of the church is still covered in the original 12th-century gold mosaics, while the other half was sadly lost over the centuries. Although less imposing than the Palatine Chapel, the small size and slightly more rugged nature of the decorations make the church feel wonderfully intimate. Entrance fee: €2
Church of St. Catald (Chiesa di San Cataldo)
A quintessential Arab-Norman church dating back to the 12th century. This tiny little church is a lot more subdued versus the previous three churches visited so far, yet somehow it makes it just that tad more authentic. Check in advance if the chapel is open, often times it will close in the afternoon. Entrance fee €1.5
Time for an apperitive
Via Chiavettieri is a great place to grab an Aperitivo before dinner. In summer a favorite of the locals is a refreshing Aperol Spritz or, for those who are fan of a heavier cocktail a Negroni. As is traditional in Italy an aperitivo will be served with something small to nibble on (usually potato chips or a little bowl of olives). Via Chiavettieri is also a wonderful place to have dinner, plenty of locals start off having aperitivo and end up staying for dinner.
Grab a spleen sandwich and eat in it front of the sea
End your day with a typical Palermitan delicacy: Spleen sandwich (Pane con la Milza in Italian or Pani ca Meusa in Sicilian). Walk towards the port of Palermo and you will be hit by a wall of delicious smells. Your nostrils are taking in the mixture of Palermitan streetfood from Ganci and the smell of friend spleen from Porta Carbone. Grab your sandwich on the go and walk along the waterfront.